From Ol Pejeta, we took a short 30 minute flight to Meru National Park. That was the easy part. Our driver and spotter - John and Jonathan (makes it easy), met us with refreshments. Maybe should have been a sign…before our one hour drive through the park to our camp.
The drive was fine up to the last 15 minutes or so. The camp is outside the National Park, on a community road, past many small Khat farms. (Khat leaves are chewed and used as a stimulant in some East African countries - illegal in many parts of the world). This road reminded us a bit of “Road 2” in Hawaii, up to our coffee farm. Anyway, glad we had four wheel drive, and once we arrived at Rhino River Camp, all was good.
This was a beautiful camp set in the forest, next to a creek complete with a waterfall. Only seven guest tents that overlooked the creek and swimming pool. The swimming pool was a great addition to this property and we used it each day in between game drives.
Meru National Park is over 1800 sq kilometers and includes a 90 sq kilometer Rhino Sanctuary. The park is famous for being the home of Elsa, the lioness of “Born Free” fame.
This place lived up to its name from the very first game drive. In a National Park you are required to stay on the roads - no off-roading. And in this area the brush is quite heavy and tall, so it can be a challenge to find wildlife - unless the wildlife comes to you. About 20 minutes into our drive and we come around a corner to find 3 rhinos laying in the middle of the road. A white rhino mom taking care of two young ones.
It was interesting to learn that the name “white” rhino was actually a mistake. Early English settlers mistook the Afrikaans word “weit” which means wide, referring to the wide square upper lip, as “white”, and of course the name stuck.
There are rangers throughout the Rhino Sanctuary portion of the National Park. Poaching has declined significantly in the past 10 years or so, mostly as a result of the constant vigilance of these rangers. It’s estimated there are about 120 rhinos in the sanctuary, around 30 black and 90 white rhinos.
There are other animals to see here as well. And with this park not frequented as much as others, the animals are a bit more nervous about vehicles. Especially the forest elephants. We had a few times with them flapping their ears at us, and one instance of being charged - just enough to warn us off. Ears flapping and bellowing as she took about half a dozen steps toward us, we quickly put the vehicle into reverse and gave the family space.
Some incredible birds in the park, and at our camp. We were swimming one afternoon and saw a little bird with a very long feather tail. I got a picture of it (not very clear) and a short video. Showed it to John and Jonathan later and they looked through their book to find it. Appears to be a male Straw-tailed Whydah. Beautiful bird. And many others as well.
Each evening at camp, we had a wonderful campfire, and at 7 PM sharp, a visit from the Bush Babies (due to the feeding). They were cute and no bother at all.
Our guides, John and Jonathan were awesome, and always very proud as the set up for breakfast or sundowners.
And of course they found some more animals to see in the park. A few that are hard to find as well - the Greater Kudu with beautiful strips, an Oryx with perfectly straight 2 foot long horns, and the Grevy’s Zebra with its narrow stripes, all white belly and large ears.
And always, elephants, giraffes, buffalo, zebra and others. And the Water Buck - very distinct with its “toilet seat” butt! All were just amazing.
Time to head to our next (and final) bush camp on this trip. At the airstrip we encountered a bus load of schoolchildren. And they all wanted to say “Hello”, practicing their English. Yes, each and every one of them. And then, “Goodbye”. Very cute and a great way to end this stay.
One more post to go after this one - and possibly our favorite stay - back at Entim Camp with some incredible sightings.
until then, take care.
All the best,
Tim & Eileen
