We left Merzouga headed for Fez - about a 7 hour drive. This would be one of the most interesting trips for us - seeing a little bit of everything along the way. From the desert we went into the Mid-Atlas mountains passing through the incredible Ziz valley. Millions upon millions of palm trees along this river that begins in the mountains and runs all the way into Algeria and the Sahara desert. The amount of green, just about an hour away from the sand dunes was amazing.
The road from here took us into the high plains between the High and Mid Atlas Mountains, through the city of Midelt, known as the apple capital of Morocco. (Sorry, I was not quite quick enough with the photo out the window, but it really did seem like we were in Wenatchee!). Further up through a mountain pass seeing many nomadic sheep herdsmen and their camps. These are mostly used to produce Beni Ourian wool used to make some of the softest wool rugs in the world.
From here we head through a great cedar forest between Azrou and Ifrane - home to many monkeys. Also we soon pass through the town of Ifrane, which seems like you are in a Swiss village. All mountain style homes here, and they do get plenty of snow - in fact there are two ski areas near by. I would never have thought about it, but there are a total of 7 ski areas in Morocco!
We finally arrive in Fez and get to our Riad for the night - Ryad Salama. A beautiful place, owned by French and managed by a French couple living in Fez. Our room was a nice upgraded suite - could have stayed here a few more days!
We really only had one full day in Fez, which is not enough by a long shot. The Medina here is the largest in Morocco (and maybe the world?), at over 540 acres - and no cars, or motorcycles (just the occasional law-breaker). We met our guide, Mohammed (go figure) to tour the city. First we went outside the Medina to a point where we could view the old city - it is massive! Something like 9,000 shops, 8,000 Riads, thousands of little streets totaling over 30 km of narrow streets to get lost in (and we would, later). The Medina is also home to the worlds oldest university, started in the year 859, and the entire Medina is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Our next stop was at a ceramics cooperative, where you could watch the artisans at work. It was very interesting to watch the extremely detailed processes that go into making both simple items and the very complex patterns of mosaics. Hand chipping the pieces for a mosaic and then placing them upside down (how do they know where each piece goes), pouring plaster and then seeing the final product. Needless to say, I think we found the place to make our next fountain!
Now into the Medina! Mohammed leads us through very narrow streets (one person wide), and we soon pass by the Rue Sabbaghine or the street of dyers. And they were - throwing fabric and shirts into big vats of color, and then ringing them out on the street. We pass by a guy making knives with handles made of sheep’s horn, and then make our way through some of the older buildings of the Al Quaraouiyine Mosque and University - the oldest university in the world, founded in 859.
From here we head toward the leather tanneries, and you could practically smell that you were getting closer as you went. When we walked inside, we were greeted and each given a sprig of mint, to hold and sniff as we toured (it was needed). It was actually amazing to see - the process is totally manual (no machines), and has remained unchanged for over 600 years. The stone vats are used first to clean and soften the hides (cow, sheep, goat, camel), and then to color them using only natural color such as poppy for red, indigo for blue, and henna for orange. Hides go into the white vats first for several days with water, salts, and even pigeon droppings to clean and soften. Then to the color vats, for about a week, being turned by hand several times a day. After drying, the hides are then sold to others to make into various products.
I’ve also added a couple videos from YouTube on the tanneries in Fez - one of these was done by National Geographic. Check them out using the video icon.
As we head to lunch we pass by the Mosque where the doors are open, as it is getting close to time for the Friday service (the Islamic holy day). We get just a glimpse inside and see one man cleansing before prayer, and also the women’s side of the Mosque. Then we go to lunch, while Mohammed takes a break just in time for service. A beautiful spot for lunch - an old Riad - where it appears many tour groups take a break.
After lunch we make one last trek, first to a carpet shop and then to a fabric cooperative. Since it is Friday, there is not much activity but still fun to see these places. Back to Ryad Salama for one more night, and then off to Rabat tomorrow.
Check out all the photos in the album, and the two new videos.
Cheers,
Tim & Eileen