After Lisbon, we decided to spend a couple of nights in Evora on our way to Porto. And it was a great choice!

We drove from Lisbon south first, past the “Christ the King” on the other side of the river - beautiful statue (monument?), inspired of course by “Christ the Redeemer” in Rio. From here we continued until we made a stop maybe 40 minutes outside of Lisbon at the Bacalhoa Winery. Just next to the winery is a large grove of Cork trees - an amazing thing to see for the first time. They peel the bark from the truck once every nine years. They say the bark grows from the inside, out, and they can harvest from the trees for hundreds of years. Portugal is the top resource of cork in the world, and it is a federal crime to take one of these trees down - even if to build a house.

The winery is known for its Moscatel de Setubal, which is a sweet wine, but not too sweet. They are also known for their art/sculptures, many highlighted in neon blue. What was most amazing to us however, were the huge olive trees. The trees had been “rescued” many years ago from another area in Portugal where a new dam would create a reservoir covering these trees. Many were planted around 300 BC! So 2,300 year old olive trees. Just incredible to see.

On to Evora which is home to many more groves of cork trees, and is the capital of the southern region of Alentejo. This area was not as damaged by the 1755 earthquake so you can get a little sense of what “old Lisbon” may have looked like. Roman ruins, including more recently excavated baths, and the home to the Franciscan Chapel of Bones make this a must-do visit, even if just for one day, but we chose to spend a couple of nights.

The first day we wandered the town on our own and spent some time at the Chapel of Bones, built in the 16th century by a Franciscan Friar, wanting people to contemplate the transitory nature of our life here. The inscription on the entrance to the chapel says “We bones that are here, for yours await”. It’s estimated that some 5,000 skeletons from neighboring cemeteries were used in the construction of the chapel. And yes, it certainly makes you contemplate your short time here on earth! (In addition to our pictures, I have attached a YouTube that shows a bit more about the Chapel - click on this link )

Time for a little wine and some dinner! Many of the restaurants here are tiny - maybe 5-8 tables seating a total of 10-20 people. Great atmosphere, and great food and wine. Some wine served straight out of the barrel, a great tempura octopus, and the black pork was amazing! We happened to be here during the Festival of St. John, so after dinner we walked to the square - just in time for the parade!

We enjoyed a nice tour the next day with a local guide who is also an archeologist. We learned many things about the local aqueduct, including seeing the homes built between the arches - no space was wasted here! We also saw the Roman ruins and local architecture, where you can see influences from the Moors, as well as Gothic and others. A very interesting walking tour for sure.

The next day we are on our way to Porto, but with a brief stop in Coimbra, which is the home to the oldest university in Portugal (and I believe the 3rd oldest in Europe). Looks like we will have to come back to Coimbra as it is a beautiful place with much to explore. As for the university, it was incredible. The students wear (after I believe their first year), black robes - not just for ceremony, but as their everyday uniform. Much like “Harry Potter”, and partly the inspiration to J.K. Rowling who spent a good amount of time in Portugal before and during the writing of these books. You could see more inspiration coming from the various buildings, the main courtyard, and especially from the library. They don’t allow photo’s on the upper (and most incredible) floor of the library, so Google “Coimbra University Library” and take a look at the Images you can find there - it is breathtaking.

This was a great stop on our way to Porto - back in the car for another 90 minutes or so, until we arrive in Porto.

We are loving Portugal!

Tim & Eileen