We arrived in Lezzeno, Italy after a 2 1/2 hour train from Florence, changing in Milan to a local train to the city of Como on the southern end of the lake, and then about 40 minutes on the windy road up to Lezzeno. This town is on the peninsula that goes between the two legs of the lake, and is just maybe 10 miles below Bellagio (the more notable town on the lake).

The lake is amazing - feels like you are on a fjord somewhere - with mountains rising up out of the water on every side. The lake is in an upside down “Y” shape, and is one of the deepest lakes in Europe at over 1,300 ft. Only a few miles from Switzerland to the west, and over the alps to the north.

Our little B&B had (I think) only 6 rooms, and we were right on the lake, with beautiful views of the town of Lezzeno, and a few of the town across the lake as well.

As luck would have it (as it has on most of this part of our trip so far), the weather is fine, but it is COLD! There will (unfortunately) be no swimming at this time in the lake. This area has a great network of passenger ferries, and you can buy a day-pass to get on & off at any of the mid-lake towns, allowing you to explore a bit, and then hop on the next ferry to another destination.

On our first full day, we hopped on the ferry from Lezzeno across the lake to Lenno. Not fully understanding how to do things, I bought a one way ticket just for that destination (about 7 Euros each). When we arrived in Lenno, I had to then buy the day pass (15 Euros each), which I later found I could have simply done on the first boat. Oh well.

It was market day in Lenno, so we had a chance to walk around and see various vendor shops on the streets. Just like being at a market anywhere else in the world, but still a fun thing to do. Lot’s of history here - this is the town where Mussolini was killed toward the end of WWII in April 1945. There are several memorials to soldiers from the town, both from WWI and WWII. And of course, many beautiful chapels in each of these towns.

Back on the ferry, our next stop is Bellagio. We first go past a couple small towns which we will visit on another day, but riding the ferry gives you a chance to just take a look from the water and think about planning another days adventure.

Bellagio is definitely the hub of all the ferry routes, and the end of the line for the buses that come from Como, so it is a bit larger and busier. Many little streets to wander, and plenty of shopping and restaurants.

After lunch in Bellagio, we hop on another ferry (this time the car and passenger ferry) to head to Varenna which is northeast. The town has some beautiful views, and this time we just do the quick walkthrough and back on the next ferry across to Menaggio.

After a full day of exploring many towns, we (meaning me) get a bit confused by the ferry schedule and we hop on the wrong one heading home. It crosses back to Varenna first, meaning it will miss the connection we needed in Lenno later. So we hop off once we get back to Bellagio, and simply take the bus about 15 minutes, to Lezzeno. Not too difficult, but finding where to buy the ticket? Of course - in the bar about a block from the bus stop!

The next day we do some similar trips on the ferry system - this time just across to Lenno and the different towns on that side. Many huge villa estates over here, including Villa Carlotta, built around 1690. There is a walk you can do on this side of the water called the Greenway Hike - taking you to and through maybe 5-6 of these incredible old estates. We hiked the trail back from Villa Carlotta to Lenno (maybe 2-3 miles), to take the ferry back to Lezzeno, with of course a stop for refreshment along the way.

Met a very interesting man on the ferry back across. We are always on the look-out - you never know when you will be “tuk-tuk”, but as he was headed to Como, and we were getting off at the next stop, it was fine to sit and talk to him. He had stories - from his father (or uncle) being the one who shot Mussolini, to having met George Clooney, etc., etc. He said he was the local historian, and pointed to various home on the lake - “that one is Armani’s”, that one is... Anyway, truth or not, he was an interesting guy and fun to talk to.

The next day we took the ferry to Como, choosing the slow ferry - the one that stops in each town - not to get off, but to at least get a closer view of each place. Beautiful places, and yes, we did see Villa Oleandra (George Clooney’s)...(the house on the water on the left).

Como was beautiful, but really good for just a few hour visit - not a lot to see/do as far as we were concerned - but still, a good place to visit. The Cathedral was incredible of course, and it was nice to walk the streets here.

Then, back on the ferry for the slow trip back to Lezzeno, past beautiful towns along the way.

Tomorrow - we hike!